The terms 'made-to-measure,' 'bespoke,' and 'custom' are often used interchangeably, but they mean different things and serve different needs. Understanding the differences helps you choose the right approach for your fit goals and budget. Here's what each actually means and when each makes sense.
What Each Term Actually Means
Made-to-measure starts with an existing pattern (a base size, like a 40R suit or size 8 dress) and adjusts it to your measurements. The maker takes your key measurements—bust, waist, hip, shoulder width, inseam—and modifies the base pattern accordingly. This is efficient because most of the pattern work is already done; the maker just tweaks it to fit your body.
Bespoke (or 'made-to-order') starts from scratch. A pattern is drafted specifically for your body, often after multiple fittings. The maker creates a personal block (a base pattern unique to you) and iterates with fittings until the fit is perfect. This is more time-intensive and expensive, but it handles complex body shapes that don't fit standard patterns well.
Custom usually means style customization on a standard size. You might choose fabric, color, buttons, or other details, but the fit is based on a standard size block. The fit gains are limited—you're getting style options, not better fit. Some brands use 'custom' to mean made-to-measure, which adds confusion.
Why Cost Varies So Much
Made-to-measure is the most cost-effective because it leverages existing patterns. The maker doesn't need to draft a new pattern from scratch—they modify an existing one. This means lower labor costs and faster turnaround. You're paying for the adjustments and the time to take your measurements, not for pattern development.
Bespoke costs more because it requires pattern drafting, multiple fittings, and more time from skilled makers. Each garment is essentially a prototype that gets refined through fittings. The maker is creating a unique pattern for your body, which requires expertise and time. This is why bespoke suits can cost $3,000+ while made-to-measure might cost $800-1,500.
Custom (style-only) is usually the cheapest because there's no fit work involved—just style choices on a standard size. You're paying for the ability to choose details, not for better fit. Some brands charge a premium for 'custom' options, but you're not getting fit improvements.
When Each Makes Sense
Choose made-to-measure when your body is close to a standard size but needs adjustments. If you're a standard size 8 but need a longer torso or wider shoulders, made-to-measure can handle that efficiently. It's also good for most everyday garments where you want better fit without the cost and time of bespoke.
Choose bespoke when your body shape is significantly different from standard sizes, or when you want a statement piece that needs to fit perfectly. If you have a very long torso, wide shoulders, or other proportions that don't fit standard blocks well, bespoke is worth the investment. It's also ideal for formalwear or investment pieces where perfect fit matters.
Choose custom (style-only) when you want to personalize details but don't need fit improvements. If you're happy with how standard sizes fit you but want to choose fabric, color, or other style elements, custom is fine. Just understand you're not getting better fit—you're getting style options.
The Future: Technology Makes Made-to-Measure More Accessible
Technology is making made-to-measure more accessible and accurate. AI body scanning can capture your body shape quickly and accurately, giving makers precise measurements without in-person fittings. Digital tailoring can automate pattern adjustments, reducing the time and cost of made-to-measure.
This doesn't replace bespoke for complex bodies or statement pieces, but it makes made-to-measure more practical for everyday garments. You can get better fit without the cost and time of bespoke, and without the guesswork of standard sizes.
The key is understanding what you're actually getting. Made-to-measure gives you better fit by adjusting existing patterns. Bespoke gives you perfect fit by creating patterns for your body. Custom gives you style options but not better fit. Choose based on your fit needs and budget.
Frequently Asked Questions
What's the difference between made-to-measure and bespoke?
Made-to-measure adjusts an existing pattern to your measurements. Bespoke creates a new pattern specifically for your body, usually through multiple fittings. Bespoke is more time-intensive and expensive but handles complex body shapes better.
Is made-to-measure worth the extra cost?
It depends on your body shape and fit priorities. If standard sizes don't fit you well and you want better fit without the cost of bespoke, made-to-measure is usually worth it. If standard sizes fit you fine, the extra cost might not be justified.
How much does bespoke cost compared to made-to-measure?
Bespoke typically costs 2-3x more than made-to-measure because it requires pattern drafting and multiple fittings. A made-to-measure suit might cost $800-1,500, while bespoke might cost $2,500-5,000+. The difference is in the time and expertise required.
Can I get bespoke fit from made-to-measure?
It depends on your body shape. If your body is close to a standard size but needs adjustments, made-to-measure can achieve near-bespoke fit. If your body shape is significantly different from standard sizes, bespoke is usually necessary for perfect fit.
What does 'custom' actually mean?
It depends on the brand. Some use 'custom' to mean made-to-measure (fit adjustments). Others use it to mean style customization only (choosing fabric, color, details on a standard size). Always ask what you're actually getting—better fit or just style options.
Related Reading
Why Clothing Sizes Don't Exist
A calm explainer on inconsistency and why fit feels random.
How to Measure Your Body (Most Guides Are Wrong)
Practical, non-fussy steps to get repeatable measurements at home.
Why Online Clothing Returns Are So High
Fit uncertainty, cost to brands, and what better sizing looks like.